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May brings the annual visit of our friend Ina from Brooklyn, New York.
This year Rick and I decided to take a five-day trip to the Canadian Rockies
with her—specifically to Banff, Lake Louise and the Icefields Parkway.
At the time I was booking our accommodations I had no idea that we would
be traveling over a Canadian holiday weekend, Victoria Day. Other than
crowds of vacationers and an hour wait to get into a popular restaurant
in Banff (The Keg for great steaks, with two locations—downtown and
in the Caribou Lodge) and convoys of RVs through Kootenay National Park
in British Columbia (the most direct way of driving to Banff, Lake Louise
or Jasper National Parks from the Flathead and parts of Canada) we really
didn't have any problems. Still, with over four million people visiting
Banff each year, compared to half that number who visit Yellowstone and
a quarter who visit Glacier each year, crowds should be expected, even
in the spring.
We left Bigfork on Friday, May 20, and headed to Canada via Hwy 93 and
the Roosville border crossing. After a detour for lunch in Cranbrook at
the Cottage Restaurant, we drove on through Radium Hot Springs and Kootenay
National Park, then took Hwy 1 (the Trans-Canada Highway) into Banff,
the third oldest national park in the world and the first national park
created in Canada. We had lucked out with a two- night stay at the High
Country Inn on Banff Avenue, well within walking distance of the shops
and restaurants, but a little bit outside the main traffic area. One of
the treats of staying at the High Country was the complimentary breakfast,
which included make-your-own Belgian waffles, which we enjoyed both mornings.
If you’re a heavy-duty shopper, Banff will satisfy your every need
—from souvenirs to high priced jewelry and art. Usually, I like to
shop a little in new places, but this time I think we hit most of the
stores in town.
Our real reason, however, for being in the Canadian Rockies was the scenery
and, hopefully, wildlife, so on Saturday morning we set off for the gondola
ride up Sulphur Mountain. It was somewhat overcast that morning and by
the time we arrived at the summit (7,486 feet) where there's a restaurant
and an observation deck, it was hailing. But, as in Montana, if you wait
a few minutes the weather might change. Luckily for us it did and we had
some splendid views of the Banff townsite and the Bow Valley. It stayed
clear for awhile so we were able to follow the interpretive, one kilometer,
self-guiding walkway out to the 1903 stone weather observatory on Sanson
Peak, named for Norman Sanson, a meteorologist who hiked up to the top
of the mountain over a thousand times to make weather observations. It
was a most interesting morning and well worth the C$22.50 per person for
the gondola ride.
Back down the mountain but nearby is the Banff Upper Hot Springs pool.
Last year we soaked in the Radium Hot Springs pool, which was busy but
not too crowded. This year Ina and I were surprised to find Banff Upper
Hot Springs was packed. Maybe it was the holiday weekend but it took us
about five minutes to find a place to get into the 100 +/- degree water.
Once we found a spot we stayed put, just as everyone else seemed to be
doing. Despite the crowds the heat was relaxing and to us, that was what
counted.
Before leaving Banff Townsite for the next part of our trip, we walked
a short trail along the Bow River, which is the longest river in Banff
National Park, to Bow Falls. Just beyond, we came to good views of the
Hoodoos (eroded pillars of sandstone standing above the Bow River) and
the Banff Springs Hotel, nestled between Rundle and Sulphur mountains,
and which has been called the most magnificent hotel in western Canada.
There are many hiking trails in Banff National Park and unfortunately,
during this visit, we merely scraped the surface of what the park has
to offer.
Watch for two more Day Trippers from our Canadian Rockies mini-vacation—one
on the Icefields Parkway and the other on the Bow Valley Parkway and Lake
Louise.
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